I recently purchased the TaylorMade RBZ driver and while it advertises 8 settings for lie, loft, and face angle with the shaft, only 4 of them are labeled. I have been looking around online and cannot find anywhere that gives a breakdown on what each setting specifically does.I would prefer not to have to just experiment with each one. Is there anybody that either knows what each setting is, or a site online that shows this? This would be very appreciated. Thank you.Current set up is: 9. Tour head, with X-Stiff Matrix Ozik HD6 shaft set at 'Lower -1.5.'
(for the one that is labeled at least).Drew. Originally Posted by dlanceI recently purchased the TaylorMade RBZ driver and while it advertises 8 settings for lie, loft, and face angle with the shaft, only 4 of them are labeled. I have been looking around online and cannot find anywhere that gives a breakdown on what each setting specifically does.I would prefer not to have to just experiment with each one. Is there anybody that either knows what each setting is, or a site online that shows this? This would be very appreciated. Thank you.Current set up is: 9.
Taylormade Driver R11s Setting Chart
Tour head, with X-Stiff Matrix Ozik HD6 shaft set at 'Lower -1.5.' (for the one that is labeled at least).DrewDid you get a booklet when you bought it? This week I bought the RBZ and was wondering the same. Both the booklet and website were completely worthless in answering any questions.
So I called Taylormade this afternoon and even the product representative didn't know, he had to put me on hold for 5 minutes to go and find out.Alright, I'm sure we know that the 2 settings on either side of standard are +/.75 degrees of loft with a total difference of 3 degrees. The other three are standard loft with an increased lie angle and +/-.75 degrees with a total difference of 1.5 degrees.So that accounts for all 8 settings but what the guy at Taylormade didn't know was how much different the lie angle was. Since I am only 5'5' and don't play anything steeper than standard, plus I was running out of patience for what I thought was a very basic question, I just let it go. Originally Posted by WadeYou should've bough the R11s if you wanted more adjustability.
I got mine about a month ago and LOVE it! I hit the ball a lot straighter and farther than my old driver. So far I've shaved about 4 strokes off my game.Nobody ever said they wanted more adjustability.we wanted to know exactly what the effect of club set up was for each notch since it was not abundantly clear in the original documentation provided with the equipment.P.S. I hit the R11, and it goes consistently shorter that they RBZ (at least for me) by about 10 yards.
I am curious though - once you got the club set up the way you liked it, how often do you change the setting on the R11? Originally Posted by blue72ssThis is the first I've heard of 'lie angle' changing, this is not advertised in the instruction book, and is NOT marked on the club.It does change the lie angle. That's why there is an 'Upright' option. You can have STD, STD Upright, Higher STD, Higher Upright, etc.On the Taylormade system, the hosel adapter applies loft, face angle and lie angle changes. The Titleist system is capable of making independent lie angle changes, regardless of the loft/face angle chosen. There isn't room to write everything the club can do on the hosel adapter.For reference:I think this link should be made into a sticky on all golf forums. Originally Posted by moparman426It does change the lie angle.
That's why there is an 'Upright' option. You can have STD, STD Upright, Higher STD, Higher Upright, etc.On the Taylormade system, the hosel adapter applies loft, face angle and lie angle changes. The Titleist system is capable of making independent lie angle changes, regardless of the loft/face angle chosen. There isn't room to write everything the club can do on the hosel adapter.For reference: think this link should be made into a sticky on all golf forums.This should be marked on the shaft, this is crazy.So I basically had to squint at the computer screen on this link to determine that higher 0.75 degrees is actually not just one click towards the word 'higher' like I thought, it appears to be one click to the right of the word 'lower'.And than the full standard higher 1.5 degree is labeled on the shaft. For example, I dont want to go higher by the full 1.5 degree, I only want to go higher by.75 degree, this position is not marked and the only thing I have to by is that link and all I can determine is that it is one click to the right of the word 'lower' on the shaft.This is pretty shoddy, because when you go lower, it is still not consistent, standard lower by.75 degree is indeed only one click to from standard.You would think they would just mark the darn shaft, most people probably dont go through all the trouble I am and probably never figure it out.
Yes, it can be very confusing. I have the booklets that came with my R9 and R11 and still assumed standard +.75 (or.5 depending on the adapter) was one click off of the labelled standard. As the link provided shows, that is incorrect.
I was using mine at 'UPRT LIE' which I thought was standard loft, just more upright, which also was wrong, (My driver static loft was 7.75 degrees at that setting) because it is actually one click counter-clockwise from 'Higher' when looking at it from the shaft side of the hosel, and un-labelled. I ended up making notes in a small notepad I keep in my bag for range sessions, using that chart from the link I provided further up.Clear as mud, hey?If you use a smartphone, bookmarking the tuner for visual reference may also be a good idea. Originally Posted by blue72ssThis video by Taylormade golf contradicts the tunetaylormade.com link, this video (by Taylormade) says you can adjust loft in half degree increments.I dont know who to believe, Taylormade or Taylormade?R9 adaptors are in half degree increments, for a total of 2 degrees change. That's what came stock on my Supertri. My R11 3 wood also has 0.5 degree increments, which is the same as the R9. The R11s and RBZ are.75/1.5 degree.
The only difference between the R11s and RBZ adaptors is the color. I actually use the RBZ adaptors on my replacement shafts for the Supertri, which can knock my 8.5 degrees all the way down to 7, or up to 10. Oh yes, almost forgot. There are also TP and non-TP versions, but the only difference is the inside diameter for either.350 or.335 shaft tips. Clearer still?Also, that video was for the original R11, not the R11s and RBZ. Same principal, just different degrees. Originally Posted by moparman426The R9 adaptors are in half degree increments, for a total of 2 degrees change.
That's what came stock on my Supertri. My R11 3 wood also has 0.5 degree increments, which is the same as the R9. The R11s and RBZ are.75/1.5 degree.
The only difference between the R11s and RBZ adaptors is the color. I actually use the RBZ adaptors on my replacement shafts for the Supertri, which can knock my 8.5 degrees all the way down to 7, or up to 10. Oh yes, almost forgot. There are also TP and non-TP versions, but the only difference is the inside diameter for either.350 or.355 shaft tips. Clearer still?The video I posted was of Taylormade stating that the R11 was in half degree increments. If the higher end course is more difficult than your normal course, then it proved to be a mistake to bring along your duffer pals. If the Duffers are just out for social fun and never work on their games, then you two 80s Twins will be frustrated with them - especially when the course is full.You and the other 80s shooter may have to play one course for challenge, and an easier course for fun with the Duffers.Don't feel you have to 'sneak away' to play the higher end course. I suspect the Duffers will play much less than you two 80s Twins.
Unless the Duffers are your bosses or something similar, just play less with the Duffers and more with each other. I've been playing around with my chipping lately, moving away from going into the ball steep with the concept of hitting the ball first and then the ground to impacting the ball with a more neutral/vertical club position, bruising the bottom of the club along the ground just before impacting the ball and giving more margin for error. Essentially a more putting type stroke, resulting in less chunked and bladed shots.I'm in two minds about what the trail arm is meant to do. Should it be staying straight or staying at a locked angle for the duration of the shot or should the elbow be folding on the back swing like a more fuller shot?Thanks.
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With R11's 3D Tuning, you can independently tune loft, face angle and flight path to your swing to maximize your distance. The Adjustable Sole Plate (ASP) allows players the ability to adjust the face angle independently of the loft, which is controlled by Flight Control Technology (FCT). Cheap golf club sets the combination of ASP and FCT effectively doubles the range of face angle for the club.The R11 Driver includes two weight cartridges weighing 10-grams and 1-gram. Altogether, the combination of the three technologies gives golfers 48 ways to set up the R11 Driver to promote up to 100 yards of side-to-side trajectory adjustment. The new aerodynamic shape of the Driver promotes faster clubhead speed for more distance, six yards longer than the R9 Supertri Driver.